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It is a cliché but
Indonesia is home to the largest Muslim population in the world but
while much is heard of the minority of fanatics less is heard of or
understood about the greater majority of Indonesians, especially
Javanese who combine their Koranic obligations with older beliefs.
The Southern Coast of Java
is a series of rocky bays and black sandy beaches. It is also mostly
seperated from the Northern Coast that was much influenced by the early
Islamic Kingdoms of
Demak
and other
Wali
Songo. The mountainous spine in effect partitioned the island and
certainly in more central southern regions the Sultan sitting in his
kraton had a greater influence on the daily lives of people than
religious scholars like in
Banten
for example.
From Pelabuhan Ratu in
the west to Prangtritis in the east and points beyond the story of the
Southern Queen still holders visitors in thrall and attracts tourists
and pilgrims attracted by the story and seeking to challenge their
fears.
In Cisolok it is
rumoured that the rock where she plunged to her death in a vain attempt
to keep her beauty is a mini tourist attraction in it's own right and
with a holy shrine, Kramat, the pervading religion seeks to cash in on
the notoriety of the spot. narrow steep steps lead you up the small
outcrop and from the top you look down on the waves crashing against the
boulders below. in stormy weather it must be a pretty fearsome place and
even today i know city folk who don't mind riding motorbikes in Jakarta
but would never climb these steps.
Closer to
the main town of Pelabuhan Ratu is the Samudera Hotel where Room 308 has
been turned into a shrine for the Queen. Ask nicely and they will show
you the room.
Beyond the
attractions of legend, Pelabuhan Ratu is popular with surfers and
Jakarta folk who don't mind the 4 hour drive to escape the city smog.
The rice fields hug the black beaches providing a photogenic cocktail of
green and black while the blue skies can quickly turn forbidding grey or
black. The undulating coastal road also provides opportunities for snap
happy visitors to gaze down on small fishing kampungs going through
their daily routine.
Other
stuff
If you're after a beer
down this way then look no further than
Any's Tavern,
on the right hand side as you head out to Cisolok, about 12 km from
Pelabuhan Ratu. For accommodation check out Ocean Queen Resort if you
have your own transport but be warned, getting up that hill is a bugger!
Buses from Kampung
Rambutan run down here but the traffic once you get off the Jalan Tol at
Ciawi can be painful. If you have your own transport turn off the main
road at and cut through some beautiful scenery. This road has little in
the way of public transport and is a short cut where the vista is
unencumbered by warung. if you are a train buff then there is a daily
train from Bogor that goes as far as. From here jump on any of the buses
that aren't moving very quickly.
From Pelabuhan Ratu there
are plenty of Angkots heading to Cisolok as well as ojeks.
There's a gibbon sanctuary
45km west of Pelabuhan Ratu. Plenty of white water rafting in and around
Gunung Halimun Nation Park. Heading east there are more beaches and more
surf |
