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<< Indonesia                            Penyengat, Riau Archipelago

South of Singapore, scattered among the busiest sea routes on the planet lie the islands of the Riau Archipelago. Historically part of the Johor sultanate the machinations of British and Dutch intruders in the 19^th Century severed them into two worlds that subsequently morphed into what we now know as Indonesia and Malaysia. Yet long after their colonial overlords granted independence the feeling of being set apart persists, the feeling that ties with their northern neighbours long outweighed their more recent geo political attachment to Jakarta. 

Today the main islands in the group are Bintan and Batam, playgrounds for the wealthy of Singapore who come in search of golf, sun and cheap beers. For those in the know Bintan is of course the start of Singapore, both in its earlier incarnation as Temasek and its more recent Raffles inspired model.  

Just off the west coast of Tanjung Pinang lies the small island of Penyenget, a mere speck among a seascape of tankers and islands but with a story to tell that transcends today’s’ arbitrary borders. 

When an old Riau king found a beautiful bride part of the dowry came in the form of the island of Penyenget and a hugely symbolic title. The Keeper of the Royal Regalia. These two acts upon the Raja Hamidah bestowed great status upon the small island and would give it a major role in the history that would soon evolve.  

When the King died his queen, Raja Hamidah, was childless and a struggle for succession ensued that no doubt would have kept the market gossips jawing. A couple of minor wives had produced offspring and each had influential backers but Hamidah, with her title of Keeper of the Royal Regalia had her own preference.  

It was into this dispute that Raffles sailed seeking a base for trade at the southern end of the Melaka Straits. The Dutch were well entrenched in Sumatra to the west and Java to the south but their hold on the Archipelago was less certain. Britain, already with Melaka and Penang, sought a more substantial outpost that couple fly the flag for Raffles liberalism and of course bloody large profits. The European powers could not help but get sucked into the succession question and by some twist of fortune the British sided with Raja Hamidah and her favoured choice. 

Before setting off to complete the succession of the chosen Tenku Long Hussein the other side struck. They attacked the Keeper and took the Regalia and crowned Tenku Abdul Rahman, setting him up on Karimon, further to the south. 

Today it’s palace and tombs attract a trickle of visitors but I wonder how many are aware of the role this island played in the founding of Singapore just a few miles to the north?