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Demak
sits proudly in the history books at the first Islamic city state in
Java more than 500 years ago. It was from here that the greatest of the
Wali Songo, Sunan Gunungjati set out to smash Banten for example.
Masjid
Agung by the alun-alun is thought to be the oldest mosque in Java with a
legend that says much about the mysticism practised by the Javanese.

Obviously Sunday is a bad day to visit as
pilgrims from surrounding kampongs are bussed in to pay their respects
to the ancient nobles who lie in the grounds of this old mosque. They
are then bussed on to the nearby tomb of one of the wali songo but
judging by the gold shops that lined the main street more earthy
delights tempt them as well.

Meanwhile a couple of miles out from the alun alun lies one of the Wali
Songo, Sunan Kalijaga,
is buried at Kadilangu. Again don't do as I do and visit on a Sunday!
More about the Wali Songo can be found
here.
As you head out there you cross a small stream. It is difficult to
envisage this was once a sea port!


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