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an Asia that you won't be reading about in the guide books...

<< Indonesia                            Cilincing, North Jakarta           Back to Jakarta's Suburbs >>

To the north east of Jakarta's main sprawl out past Tanjung Priok but within rock throwing distance of Tugu lies what was once the scene of the largest naval action in the east until the second world war. A British armada of some 100 ships carrying 12000 men laid anchor at the mouth of the Cilincing at 2 pm on Sunday August 4th 1811, their mission to invade and conquer the island of Java, the being ruled by the Dutch with some French input. 

Java was and of course still is the pivotal point of a large sea trading nation and you would imagine 100 foreign ships turning up in your front garden might have excited some comment or reaction. Instead the invading armies, divided roughly between European and Indian forces, landed under the bemused eyes of local fishermen who probably decided that Sunday may be a good day to rest. Battling contrary tides the worst the forces suffered was some pre invasion meals being regurgitated into the bay. 

A map showing the positions after landing makes interesting viewing. A frigate, named  Leda, blocked the river mouth while small rafts ferried the troops ashore. Once on land they would have waded through morasses to build defenses were set on the roads in the area. One heading to Batavia, the other to Cornelis. Yep, just 2 roads!  

Cilincing itself appears as a couple of islands between a river and a canal. The Dutch had thoughtfully left the bridge over the canal standing thereby doing their best not to impede the invasion too much. Head quarters was set up just to the south of the rivers in a house built in the 1700s by a prominent Dutch landowner named Julius Vinck who also made his mark in neighbouring Tugu. It would have been here the force commander Auchtemy and possibly Raffles, the man chosen to lead a new Java spent their first night in Java. Around them were rice fields and tree clumps with isolated kampungs by the sides of the innumerable streams while being so far from Batavia strong walls provided defence against any locals who weren't overjoyed by their landlord

After roughing it under the stars the next day was wagons roll. Tugu was reached, the church there is marked on contemporary maps as Suyrannah, while along the north coast they passed Tanjung Priok and by the Tuesday they had reached Ancol. If they had waited 180 years they could have got the toll road, got stuck in the traffic and never made it into Jakarta!

Some of the invading forces, well at least a few European officers, who died are buried or remembered in the grounds of All Saints Church which is near Gambir Station.

 

Sources:

Historical Sites of Jakarta - A Heuken

The Conquest of Java - William Thorn

 

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