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In those early decades of the 17th
century the spice race was hotting up, especially after the enormous
profits the first voyages raked in. just as the financial heavyweights
were tempted so were lower echelons of the great and the good. Black
sheep and ugly ducklings headed east, either encouraged or by their own
free will, to try and salvage some family honour and make a few bob,
pioneer FILTH,(Failed In London, Try Hong Kong) or ESL Teachers, these
hardy souls didn’t have the luxury of credit cards, mobile phones or the
internet to make home seem much closer. Often they were washed up,
literally in some cases, on some unknown tropical coast and had nothing
but their wits to help them survive. Many lacked even that.
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Floris is worth a chapter on his own but
in a sentence he was a Dutchman who approached the English East
India Company with a proposition that would see their vessels
visit Siam for the first time. He convinced them and in 1611
headed east on a 4 year journey into those still pretty much
unknown waters, an aquatic Captain James T Kirk if you like,
well, unknown to the west. |
Additional Reading:
The Honourable Company - John Keay
Voyage To The East Indies
- Peter Floris
The Malay Kingdom Of Pattani
- Ibrahim Syukri |
At that time the ports of Pattani, Ligor,
Singgora (Songkhla) on the south east coast of the narrow peninsula and
Ayuthya were doubly important. Not only for the domestic markets, China
had turned inward and the only trade foreigners could affect was through
Macau, which was highly restricted or through some neutral ports like
those of the Gulf of Siam, Formosa or The Philippines.
Floris first touched base in Pattani in
June 1612, 18 months after leaving England. En route he had stopped off
on the eastern ports of India and Bantam (now Banten) in Java, trading
and generally burying colleagues. His notes of his 4 year journey will
never win any literary awards but they do offer us a chance to pull back
the years and at least a glimpse of a forgotten time. Being Dutch he
wrote his diary in his own lingo and the translation passed down to us
gives us a second hand view of his own impressions. The spelling is much
different to modern day usage and his convoluted sentences can be hard
on the reader especially as one soon forgets who the subject of any one
sentence was.
Functional would be a polite way of
calling his recollections. He was after all a merchant and deaths are
recorded in the same matter of fact manner as arson and disappearing
vessel as if he was entering it all in a giant ledger. They arrived on
22nd June and found a Dutch vessel already berthed, The
Bantam, named after the major trading port in Java and while it
would be interesting to know what the good captain of this rival ship
thought of a fellow cloggy in the pay of the competition, instead we
learn only that they advised about Pattani’s manners and ‘custome.’ It
is also interesting to note that Floris refers to Pattani as a country
separate from Ligor, Siam, Pahang and any others of the peninsula.
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After being warmly welcomed by
the Dutch, they sent ashore a John Persons and Nasir Khan to
advise the authorities they were English and carried a letter
from His Britannic Majesty to the Queen of Pattani officially
announcing their arrival. This would have been Raja Ijau, Ijau
meaning Green, who was nearing the end of her reign. For some
reason Floris wasn’t interested in giving her a name. |
Getting
There & Away: Coming
from Thailand, the best way to reach Pattani is from Hat Yai.
There are many mini buses and regular buses doing the run. From
Malaysia cross the border in Kelantan at Rantau near Kota Bahru
and get buses from Sungai Golok. Of course it may not be the
best time to visit at the moment. |
The following day another Dutch vessel
arrived from Banjarmasin, a major trading port on the south east coast
of Borneo, where they had just 'burned and pillaged the towne,' in
revenge for some unspecified wrong. After revictualling they were off to
Japan. Floris in the meantime was advised to stick around a bit longer
while the officials made ready 'too receyve' the royal letter
honourably.
In due course a couple of Chattis,
traders from Southern India, came aboard to translate the letter into
Malay, for which they were well rewarded. When finally they were allowed
ashore they were no doubt all excited but Floris deadpans their arrival
as greeted by the locals 'according to the manner of the countrye,'
whatever that means. The good Floris regales us with how the bloody
letter, laid in gold, was carried on a bloody elephant with bloody
minstrels but neglects to tell us 'the manner of the countrye!'
Anyway, the court accepted they were
interested in free trade and promised to advise their customs and
duties. Which of course Floris didn't see fit to commit to paper. We
learn about a 'banckett' of fruits with the harbour master, Shah Bandar,
and Laksamana, we learn they return home on elephants and we even learn
they spent the night at the house of the longer established Dutch.
The following morning the Laksamana
returned with a Dato Besar, like a chief minister, and they all repaired
to the Balai, or audience hall. Interestingly the ranks and venue are
words of Malay origin and are significant in that while Pattani may have
recognized the King of faraway Siam by paying tribute, it was on much
closer cultural and linguistic terms with its closer, Malay, neighbours.
Anyway, Floris and the English pressed
for a brick house so they could store merchandise on land while the ship
sailed for Siam. Obviously some sturdy premises would likewise reduce
the risk of fire damage or break in. The officials were singularly
unimpressed; pointing out the Dutch had been here ten years before
getting such a building so really the English couldn't really complain
that much could they? They could and did. Floris was possibly getting a
tad excited at this point, making the excellent point that building a
brick house after a fire would be pointless if everything had been
destroyed. After talking in circles with 'these blockheads' the
officials finally agreed to check with the Green Queen. The next few
days, gamely they followed up on their house while the officials hummed
and hahhed in that oh so leisurely manner of the east. After all,
reasoned the officials, there was no mention of it in the letter from
their king. Floris, really getting pissed now, describes them, in
translation at least, as 'suche people would have stinted a madde brayne.'
It is not recorded what the Pattani folk felt about these whinging,
uninvited, guests from afar.
It would be of interest if we were left
some knowledge of their daily schedule, of their life, as they settled
into a routine in that strange and wonderful place but Peter Floris was
writing to a specific audience. The Directors of the East India Company
and like investors everywhere their interest was purely the bottom line.
Those Elizabethan Warren Buffets with their ruffs and goatees had no
altruistic interest in exploration, science or culture; rather the
ledger and the only thing that could get them het up were extraneous
expenses which usually involved bloody great piss ups on their account.
Those bean counters in Leadenhall Street
begrudged the slightest farthing being expended with no hope of
financial gain and would no doubt have collectively tut-tutted Floris'
ambition for a stone built house, however well intentioned the proposal.
Indeed, rather than today where good managers are seen as valuable
assets, at least on MBA programmes, the captains and merchants on those
long voyages were viewed as a necessary, expensive, evil. London was
convinced they were all engaged in private trade, a no no, often using
company stock or funds. Often they were of course and being aware of
this, Floris and his ilk went to great lengths in their correspondence
to show how everything they did was above board and scrupulously fair.
History, and literature, may have ignored
the plucky, unimaginative Floris but a contemporary of his is much
better remembered thanks to an epic work by James Clavell. While Floris
dutifully kept his diary up to date and rode elephants William Adams was
inveigling himself into the Shogun's good books in far off Japan,
mastering the language, nurturing powerful friends at court. Anyway,
Adams had written to Bantam urging trade and a reply was being sent via
Pattani.
In Floris' time the Japanese weren't the
welcome guests they are in modern Thailand. Today, Japan Airlines bring
thousands of Japanese tourists with bulging wallets and a yen to spend.
Japanese car plants provide jobs to an ever increasingly skilled
workforce, add zeros to the export numbers and keep the traffic on
Bangkok's roads stalled. But tell Peter Floris or the Green Queen how
welcome the Japanese would become almost 500 years down the line and no
doubt they would curse you in no uncertain terms. 'Suche people would
have stinted a madde brayne.'
At that time Japanese pirates were the
scourge of the seas 'feared in all places where they come,' while highly
prized as mercenaries. The first Dutch factory in Pattani was destroyed
in 1605 by pirates, no doubt why Floris was so keen on acquiring a
sturdy, permanent house. On at least one other occasion had they
attacked and burned the town in recent years and with other more local
dangers one can imagine hid desire for solid brick.
Floris did manage to rent a couple of
houses, one for 'us' and one for the sick of which there were plenty. In
a moment of dry humour he records, replete with the spelling of the day,
'as yf the plague had bene in the ship.' The ship's captain, Hippon,
died on 9th July, at 11 pm, leaving the merry band in a spot of bother.
A ship's captain was the executive and the judicial branches in one
mighty figure and to replace him was a serious business thought out even
before the ship had left her home port.
All gathered together on board and, no
doubt with great solemnity, rocking gently on the tide, turned to
Replacing Captains for Dummies. The procedure was fairly straightforward
and a damned sight easier than electing a new pope or leader of the
Conservative Party. Future appointments, in case of death, sickness or
jumping ship, had been decided and put in numbered boxes so Floris and
the gang just turned to the relevant box. Robert Browne was the
preferred choice in box # 1 but they'd already buried him in a different
type of box, in Madras, so Robert Essington was second choice. The
problem was while Robert was a good merchant he actually knew squiddly
about sailing so they nominated someone to act as his subordinate. Job
done they praised God and waited for the next one to die. They didn't
have a long wait.
After a busy week burying people and
finding a new captain you can be sure that all Floris was looking
forward to was a bit of peace and quiet. He got burgled! Well, that's
what he claimed. The Dutchman was in a house with some 14 others, a
flimsy affair made of reeds. He goes on in great detail about the
sleeping arrangements, how he and Mr Lucas were in a bed 'apart lyinge
close together, having a great black dogge lying under.' A trunk was by
his feet. There was very little space to move around, Floris trying hard
to convince the Directors that the theft was some superhuman feat and
not the result of too many pissed up sailors and traders. Or an inside
job. Anyway these miscreants, whoever they may have been, allegedly
climbed up the flimsy wall, unseen by the guard, climbed through a
presumably open window and silently slid into the dark room. Where 2
burly sailors were sleeping. The intruders then crept under the bed,
past the great black dogge who, no doubt, was sleeping peacefully or
rolled over to have his belly scratched, and opened the padlock of the
trunk. They took money, 'dyverse prety things,' his sword and much else,
leaving behind Lucas' sword for some reason. And no one stirred. No one
heard a sound. The guard reported seeing and hearing nothing. Sherlock
Holmes would love a case like this, though by applying his own methods
it is an open and shut case. If no one was seen or heard entering or
leaving the house, if the dogge didn't react then Holmes would point the
finger at an inside job and be back at Baker Street for tea with Mrs
Hudson.
And so life went on for the redoubtable
Floris and his dwindling band. In November of the same year John Downes
died. Mention is made of him sitting at dinner 'att noone' and being
dead 'att night.' Floris doesn't seem overly upset, complaining Downes,
despite being just a servant of the previous captain, had his fingers in
the company cookie jar and was indebted to many Chinese merchant ashore.
On New Years Eve the Queen, 'a comely old
woman,' 'wente to sport hirselfe', whatever that may mean, accompanied
by 600 local boats. She was tall, in this particular diary entry her age
was left blank, full of majesty and without equal throughout the Indies.
Well, so the good Peter says. The Green Queen was accompanied by her
younger sister and heir whose age was guessed at a rather precise 46.
The brief meeting with the future Blue Queen was ended when she 'lette
fall the curtaine' but that they should come again the next day.
The following day, New Years Day, was
party time. The Pattani folk put on a dancing show, again the flowery
Floris had never seen anything like it in the East. Then the English and
Dutch put on a show and the Green Queen 'was muche rejoyced.' Apparently
she had not been out of her palace in seven years so their was much
rejoicing when she set off hunting wild buffalo. The Europeans caught up
in the excitement fired their muskets in the air. You had to be there I
guess.
The Queen had other things on her mind at
this time. Her younger sister had married the King of Pahang way back
when and the sisters had not seen each other for nearly three decades.
Any requests from Pattani had been brushed aside by Pahang with various
lame excuses so the Queen, aware of her own mortality, decided to act.
Any vessels heading for Pahang were held in Pattani while she sent what
was in effect her navy. An early naval blockade if you will. 70 ships
took some 4000 men south with instructions to bring back the sibling by
peace or force. It was also rumoured that Johore was itching to invade
Pahang while a ruler in Borneo was prepared to intervene should Pahang
need it.
In July the Pahang King arrived in
Pattani with his wife and children. He was not a happy chappy, what with
having lost his house and fort. Still the sisters were reunited. Floris,
in a neighbourly gesture visited the King who responded well but he
wasn't well respected generally. Another time the Europeans invited him
to their house and he arrived in great state but the picture painted in
the journal is of a slightly pathetic monarch living on past dreams. He
returned to Pahang in August with his wife and children. The Blue Queen
shall return shortly to these pages.
October saw the start of Ramadan, or the
Moorish Lent Floris calls it. It started with a good old fashioned riot!
The Dato Besar was disliked by some of his Javanese slaves. He arrested
and bound two of them and the slave leader or penghulu took offence at
this. The Dato Besar took offence at the penghulu taking offence and
killed him. The rest of the slaves rioted, burning down the town,
attacking anyone in their path. They were joined by the Laksamana's
Javanese slaves and pretty soon there were dozens of angry Javanese
pillaging the town. They also took the 'beste bondswomen' and for once
Floris gets exact, who they were 'domineering very lustly' until after
dinner.
There were rumours the Europeans too
would be attacked so the English and Dutch armed themselves, putting on
a big show. In the meantime the Javanese fled up country leaving Pattani
burning for a third time in recent years.
Floris seems to get a little emotional as
he prepares to leave describing this troublesome time. He must have
grown attached to the place or some people but he leaves no clues in his
writing, instead leaving behind a functional, read boring, account of
his time there. He fails to name local functionaries, referring to them
purely by their title yet at other times does name foreigners when they
form part of the crew. Perhaps the detail lies in what he omitted or, in
the case of the burglary, the unusual accuracy. Still, he has left
something and I would buy him a pint for his trouble. |