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an Asia that you won't be reading about in the guide books...

<< Malaysia                            Chap Goh Meh & Penang

Translates as 15th night in Hokkien Chinese, Chap Goh Meh is the 15th day of the Chinese New Year and a time when traditionally eligible young ladies were allowed to go out withtheir stern faced amahs or female relatives in tow to keep the randy young gallants at bay. At least the young bucks could cast their eyes over the available talent, contact a matchmaker and see if wedding bells were in the stars. In a nutshell.

Traditionally many Chinese didn't return to work until after Chap Goh Meh but unfortunately in today's global environment the idea of whole communities taking off for 2 weeks is a no no. There was the joke doing the rounds during the cold war that everyone knew when the Soviets would invade Western Europe...at the weekends because there would be no one to answer the phones! Houses are lit up, at Chap Goh Meh not the Soviet invasion, prayers are offered to ancestors and final requests for prosperity, never very far from Chinese spirituality, because it is believed the prosperity god goes away after the 15th day.

Penang adds a twist to this tradition for on the big day the ladies head down to the waters edge, in this case the esplanade and throw oranges into the waters. This signifies their availability to the watching men apparently. It has become a big day on the Penang calendar with Dragon dancing, big flag waving (Chingay) and, this being Penang, loads of food available.

Once upon a time Chinese daughters led pretty secluded lives, they weren't encouraged to move about freely, many didn't even go to school so Chap Goh Meh was their big day. They would dress up in all their finery and jewellry and, certainly the well to do ones, to cruise round early Georgetown in horse drawn buggies, looking demure and suitably shy but open to offers. By the river or down by the Esplanade they would throw oranges into the waters and wish for a husband.

For the men it was their Christmas but they too were constrained by tradition. They couldn't just chase after the lady of their dreams. Instead they made a note of the carriage number as it drove past and passed the details on to an intermediary or matchmaker. It was this person's job to approach the family of the girl and open negotiations.

Today the girls still throw the oranges into the water and teams of men race to gather as many as they can while in the background choirs sing dondang sayang, love songs, while every else eats. Oh and in these cross borders times the oranges must of course be mandarins, not some Californian import!

There is one famous story of a young lad who saw the most gorgeous girl riding round Penang one Chap Goh Meh. He made a note of the number and the matchmaker got to work. In those days the bride and groom didn't always get to meet before the big day and that was the case here. So our young hero wakes up on the day of his wedding dreaming drop dead beauty and no doubt rubbing his hands in expectation, wondering if what his servant had told him was true. For in those days there was no sex education. Anyway he turns up at his wedding and his heart drops for instead of the beauty he was expecting he got a rather fat, rather plain someone else. It seems the beauty was a cousin just visiting for the festival and the daughter of the house was now eagerly expecting a husband. The husband went through with it and probably had the last laugh for as well as being rather fat and rather plain the lady in question was rather rich!

 

 

 

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