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This article first appeared in South Jakarta magazine, October 2007

Mudik

O ye who believe! Fasting is prescribed to you As it was prescribed To those before you That ye may learn Self restraint (Sura 2:183)

 Fasting (Sawm), the denial of food, drink, gossip, backbiting, anger, envy and sex, is one of the 5 pillars of Islam along with the profession of the faith (Shahadah), prayer (Salah), donations to the needy (Zakat), and the pilgrimage to Mecca (Haj). The word Sawm is of Arabic origin while here in Indonesia, and also in Malaysia, puasa is used.

 As can be seen in the above quote from the Qur’an fasting was not a new institution. The idea of mastering one’s desires in order to feel closer to a Supreme Being can be found in Judaism, Sikkism, Hinduism as well as Christianity. But while today in Christianity little heed is paid to fasting in Islam it is eagerly awaited.

 The fast begins with the new moon that signals the Arabic month of Ramadan (the 9^th month of the Islamic calendar that translates as very hot, dry land and shortage of supplies) and ends when a new moon appears heralding the start of the month of Shawal, about 30 days later. For Muslims the lunar month of Ramadan has extra significance as it was then the Prophet first received the Qur’an from the Angel Gabriel while he was meditating.  

With certain exceptions all adult Muslims are expected to participate in the fast. People who are sick or on journeys are permitted to be exempt but on the understanding they make up the lost days in the future. People who could be endangered by fasting can make amends by donating food for poor people. Menstruating women are also exempt and must make up any days the miss after Ramadan. 

The fast begins when ‘the whiteness of the day becomes distinct from the blackness of the night at dawn’ (2:187) usually an hour or so before sunrise and ends when the sun sets. It is common in families throughout the Islamic world to rise early and share this meal, called Suhoor, together before going to work or school or back to bed. The fast is broken at sunset, Kurma, and again people try to share this moment with their families and in many Islamic countries work places adjust their working hours to allow staff plenty of time to make the journey home before it gets dark. Of course not everyone can so many restaurants offer specially priced meals to attract customers. 

A new moon welcomes the month of Shawal and the end of the fast. Eid ul Fitri means the celebration of the ending of the fast and is, officially, a 2 day holiday when people visit family members, feast together and ask for forgiveness for sins committed over the previous 12 months. Typically what happens is big towns and cities empty as people far from home return to their province by rail, bus, ferry or anything else available weighed down with their monthly bonus and presents for the folks they haven’t seen for a year. In Indonesia this is called ‘pulang kampung’ and is covered in great delight by the media who gleefully report on the empty streets in population centres while elsewhere the transport infrastructure struggles to handle the millions on the move. But despite the difficulties involved, and the high cost of travel at a peak time, workers will not be deprived their few days at home among their family and friends. They have been saving all year for this one moment; a little inconvenience isn’t going to hold them back.

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