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an Asia that you won't be reading about in the guide books...

<< Indonesia                           Best of Enemies - The English and the Dutch in the Spice Islands

 

 

One of life's little pleasures as an English expat is being able to sit in a bar on a Saturday night necking Dutch beer and watch Dennis Bergkamp glide gracefully through an English Premier League match. As an artist would use a brush, a writer a pen, so Bergkamp his cultured right foot which he uses to optimal effect as he spays quality passes across his easel.

 

Bergkamp of course is Dutch. A Dutch master in the manner of van Basten or van Gogh and to appreciate his artistry over a Dutch beer on these Indonesian isles may seem as normal as a traffic jam in Kemang, but way back when sailors risked scurvy and malaria after an 8 month journey from more temperate climes things weren't so neighbourly.

 

The Dutch had been trading in the fabled Spice Islands and Banten since the end of the 16th century and were quite content for the status quo to continue. By the logic of the time, they were here first, that came with monopolistic rights. They did however tolerate a British presence in Java, far from the spice producing islands but handy enough for the trade; tolerate is probably too strong a word. The English and the Dutch would frequently brawl in the streets of Banten much to the disgust, or amusement, of the local sultan.

 

But as the English grew more assertive on the sea routes and islands, the Dutch became more protective of their produce. The Dutch were well settled on the Bandas, home to many of the islands vital to the spice trade and set up 'agreements' with local chiefs. In 1614 the English tried to get serious and set up a permanent position on the island of Ai. 5 miles distant of the Bandas and till then untouched really by the Dutch.

 

The islanders were keen enough. Their brethren weren't too happy on the other islands and the English were perceived as better trading partners. As a matter of colonial courtesy the English called on the Dutch governor to explain their actions but this gentleman, named Reynst was not so welcoming. The English returned to Ai, did a roaring trade and headed back to Banten, leaving behind a couple of traders to fly the flag and organise resistance to the expected Dutch attack.

 

The English' arrival coincided with Gunung Api exploding big time and the local chieftains saw great significance in this as indeed did some of the Dutch forces. Old man Reynst however was no superstitious freak and carried on planning for the attack which was fixed for June 1615. He was convinced 1000 well armed Dutch and Japanese would handle 500 locals and promised the island would be Dutch in a couple of hours.

 

It wasn't so easy though. 36 invaders were killed on the first day, a couple of hundred wounded and even a couple of defectors. The Dutch would not give up and returned a year later with stronger forces. The English too had some back up though they were no help. The new Dutch commander was named Lam and it appears that previously he had been of service to the new English commander Casteton. They met and dined together and Casteton agreed to withdraw his fleet and advise the English traders, led by Richard Hunt, to be neutral in the up coming battle. Rather than face the likely to be upset Ai natives he then headed for Ceram

 

Hunt ignored the advise of his erstwhile supporter, fought and fled to nearby Run after the island fell. The Dutch had long memories though and after he managed to return to Banten, poor old Hunt, having been let down by his military, suffered the indignity of being attacked in the narrow streets and, in that quaint language of the time, 'sett him in  boltes at their gate in the hotte sunne, without hatte.' One is left wondering what the greater effrontery was, being attacked or being left outside without a hat on.

 

The English rose up in revenge and threatened to pick off the Dutch merchants one by one till wiser heads counseled caution and a sort of peace hung in the unhealthy air. The truce may have been official but it didn't stop the 2 neighbours attacking one another and even some lives were still taken. All very unofficial of course.

 

Back on the Spice Islands, the English were putting up a heroic resistance on the island of Run, the only one not yet under Dutch control. So me sailors who tried to make a break sailed straight into a Dutch ambush and were chained in Fort Revenge on Ai where the Dutch took great delight in pissed and shitting on the heads of their captives. I guess they weren't wearing hats either.

 

The Dutch were on edge. They saw the English as a serious threat and cautioned all mtheir governors to be awaqre of thisthreat. One such governor van Speult on Ambon. He got on fairly well with the rag tag assortment of English eking out a living often forgotten by their employers far across the seas. One night a chance conversation on guard duty on the battlements led to one of the most bloodthirsty episodes a bloodthirsty time.

 

A Japanese guard was talking about the defense capabilities of the fort to a Dutch guard whose suspicions were aroused. The unlucky Japanese was placed in the cells and tortured. He protested his innocence but eventually admitted that the English and the Japanese were planning an attack. This was a surprise to the English who would often visit the fort while being denounced but the betrayal played into the fevered mind of the governor. He had the whole English contingent arrested. A drunken doctor took one look at what had happened to the Japanese and agreed that yes, the English were planning an assault

 

The governor was surprised to hear such a confession, as of course were the English who possessed 2 swords, 3 muskets and no ships. The number was 18 and included barbers, traders, sailors. The governor arrested all and set about torturing all. Candles were used, water liberally imbibed until the bodies expanded s much. The screams hung around the fort for a week or so and even on he Sabbath the Dutch were studiously digging for information. As they finished with one he was cast to the floor, his wounds  untreated, a breeding ground for maggots that could soon be crawling in and out the open wounds. Of the 18, all but two were to be executed. Poignant final words scribbled in the Psalms helped fueled outrage whe n they reached England long after the event and the two countries came close to war. The massacre ultimately was to becom4e a bargaining chip along with the island of Run but surely the greatest insult came when the Dutch invoiced the English for a cloth rag that had been so bloodied during the tortures it couldn’t be used again.

 

They were hard times, no doubt about it with hard men doing a hard job. The English of course were no angels on the balance sheet of torture. I'm just glad that we have moved on and it is indeed a pleasure to sit in a Dutch bar, like BuGils, drinking with Dutch people whose English is often better than a native speakers, and not worry about being tied to a gate without a hat for non payment of bills.

 

 

 

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